Animal Anomalies

Photo by Petra Collins

A structured, navy-lime, tartan, wolverine coat paired with a green, denim skirt-belt and–how could I forget?–a green prosthetic lizard face. The relationship between animals and fashion has always existed, but creators are pushing boundaries to transform that relationship into something entirely new. Creative director and fashion designer Hillary Taymour made headlines with her New York Fashion Week Autumn / Winter ‘23 collection for Collina Strada. Taymour is passionate about creating a brand that is a platform for climate awareness, social awareness, change and self-expression. Her over-the-top show with models decorated in various animal prosthetics was, to her, “a toned-down version of Collina,” as she shared in an interview with Vogue. Models walked the stage transformed into dolphins, dogs and lizards. Some simply donned giant ears and fluffy tails, while others flaunted full face prosthetics that carefully hid the human being beneath. Many applauded her line and the creativity that went into executing it, but others found it a bit odd. Her extravagant style is used to make a statement, and Taymour is not the only creative following this method.

Animals and fashion have remained intertwined for all of time. Furs are crafted into elegant coats and accessories; skins are used to give articles texture. Animals have remained an inspiration and a staple in the fashion world ever since humans wore pelts. But some, like Taymour, are taking this animalistic inspiration one step further and blurring the lines between human and animal through the use of animal prosthetics and absurdist expression. Photographer and creative director Petra Collins focuses on femininity and self-discovery in her works and found immense success in her books in which she morphed models into mythical creatures. Collins’s 2019 book, OMG, I’m Being Killed, offers a more horrifying approach to the use of prosthetics. Created as a response to the filter-obsessed culture of 2019, the book uses terrifying prosthetics, like fake heads and giant ears lined with piercings, to represent what Collins feels is the “truth about the age we live in.” 

Much of her work uses the uncanny and unimaginable to convey her messages. Collins’ 2021 book, Fairy Tales, tells of nine erotic fairy tales created by Collins with actress Alexa Demie portraying the nine characters. The photos in the book show Demie transmogrified into magical creatures, including a sprite and a mermaid, through the use of prosthetic horns, ears and a mermaid tail, colored contacts and lengthy acrylic nails. The surreal photographs combine playfulness with passion and explore the juxtaposition between the sinister and seductive.

Animalistic fashion on the runway and on the pages of popular books has inspired a new generation of creatives who want to experiment with the fun and kitschy. Berlin icon, horsegiirL, is a DJ, producer and songwriter who has yet to reveal her true identity to the world since her debut in 2022. The Berlin artist created her career from her camp style, both in fashion and music. The DJ wears an equine mask and often carries a pitchfork with her to gigs, she sports a Y2K-influenced style and released her own line of merchandise that included shirts painted with doodles of horses and her name. Her outrageous style has caught the eye of many figures in the fashion industry; she served as the entertainment at a Jaded London event and partnered with Heaven by Marc Jacobs. HorsegiirL’s career is just beginning to unfold and may introduce a new wave of celebrities using animal personas.

Prosthetic-donning creatures may soon become more common as more creatives get in touch with their wild side. Will a new generation of creators and designers transform the way animals are used in high fashion and popular media? For now, it seems like they just might. The fashion world seems to be fixated on the eccentric; the more exaggerated a collection is, the more celebrated it becomes. The transformation of human models into animalistic and fantastical creatures has been seen before and will likely be shown again. Although slightly off-putting, the use of prosthetics is avant-garde enough to remain a staple in the creative and high fashion worlds.