Camp and Controversy: People We Love to Hate
Courtesy of Vanity Fair
Caught outside of a grocery store walking in a bra and underwear set by Alexander Wang and a chic jean blazer and boots in 2022, the controversial Julia Fox was the center of attention. Her bold ensemble defied our current conceptions about what is appropriate for mundane acts such as shopping.
Clothing has a unique ability to communicate our identities and convey the messages we wish to share with the world. In the dynamic realm of fashion, certain individuals have emerged as distinctive figures renowned for their audacious self-expression and their role in redefining the concept of camp. While they have undoubtedly left a mark on the industry, it is worth questioning whether these individuals are really worth celebrating. Where should we draw the line between controversy and artistic innovation?
This nuanced debate brings to mind the controversial figure of Anna Delvey (real last name Sorokin). Delvey is well known through the media attention she received during her trial and the hit Netflix show “Inventing Anna,” which is based on her life as a New York socialite. Posing as a German heiress, Delvey lived an extravagant lifestyle until she was arrested in 2019 and charged with theft and grand larceny. After her arrest, Delvey became the center of media attention and a figure in fashion, thanks to her story and her luxurious court room looks. Delvey wore brands such as Michael Kors, Saint Laurent and her signature black Céline glasses as she stood in court, sparking the creation of the Instagram account @annadelveycourtlooks.
Delvey served four years in prison for her crimes and was released in February 2021, only to then be arrested by Immigrations and Customs enforcement later that month because she overstayed her visa. Delvey paid bail and is currently under house arrest and unable to access her own social media due to court orders. This did not stop her during New York Fashion Week; she and Kelly Cutrone, a powerhouse publicist who became aware of Anna through the Call Her Daddy podcast, held a fashion show for Shao Yang, a client of Cutrone’s, at her apartment in the East Village. Cutrone saw it as mutually beneficial for newcomers Yang and Delvey to work together.
The abnormal circumstances surrounding Delvey’s reputation and house arrest, unconventionality of the small setting, and a post-show pizza party added to the show’s campy appeal. It completely juxtaposes the meticulously choreographed high fashion shows that are held in some of the world’s most extravagant places. Delvey’s show acted almost as a parody of fashion presentation, and she used the publicity surrounding her name to push boundaries such as where fashion shows can be held and who can hold them.
Although she has a controversial history, Anna Delvey has been met with positive reactions. Her reputation underwent a transformation as she has come to be seen as a “visionary.” The irony of her embracing her own controversy invites her into the discussions of what it means to be camp. This societal definition of camp contrasts with Susan Sontag’s definition as it is more focused on the evolving values of our society and audacious figures who may unintentionally embody a camp sensibility in their disputed actions. In the realm of contemporary camp, figures like Trisha Paytas have redefined self-expression. From her emotionally charged Mukbang videos to naming her daughter Malibu Barbie, Paytas celebrates her extravagant nature and controversies by turning her over-the-top personality into content for her Youtube channel.
In the eyes of the internet, Delvey’s glamorous and controversial persona has allowed her to transcend her crimes. What she did was simply “camp.” This shift in perception is not unique to Delvey. History has provided us with another controversial woman in fashion: Marie Antoinette. Antoinette, the last Queen of France before the French revolution, is widely known in history for her opulent clothing. The recent rise in popularity of Sofia Coppola’s 2006 film Marie Antoinette has spurred discussions surrounding Antoinette’s character. She has been referred to as camp for her towering hairstyles and lavish, unconventional jewelry. While Antoinette enjoyed a lush life prior to her beheading, the French population suffered from severe economic hardships. Her detachment from the struggles of the common people has made her a symbol of insensitivity, which arguably is what we consider camp now.
Women who might have been criticized in the past due to their outlandish fashion choices are now characterized as camp and “iconic.” What unites women like Delvey and Antoinette are their disregard for societal norms and their extravagant and arguably “superficial” natures.
As we explore the change in the lens through which we see these women, we must consider how truly camp they are and how the word has adapted to modern society. Its definition is transitioning toward thoughtless extravagance, leaving behind its core message of pushing boundaries. While some may argue that this celebration of controversy is a form of boundary-pushing, a fundamental question emerges: Are these the boundaries that should truly be challenged and celebrated?
People are increasingly drawn to women who appear disconnected from the everyday realities of the world. In a complex and often distressing global landscape, these figures serve as symbols of the escapism that many people yearn for, offering a temporary respite from the harshness of reality. Their appeal often lies in their ability to evade accountability for their actions. They live free of worry.
It’s essential to reflect on the evolving definition of camp and whether it now accommodates the celebration of controversial characters who, in many respects, may not merit such adulation. Despite being well aware of these individuals’ imperfections, we remain captivated by their every action.
In the constantly changing world, the line between what is worth celebrating and what is not blurs. We must reflect on the nature of audacity and extravagance and look at what we value as a society. What is the true message we really want to reflect through our clothes?