Dior Appropriates Designs from Escaramuza Uniform and Traditional Mexican Clothing

Dior has found themselves in hot water after their 2019 collection “Dior Cruise,” which features Jennifer Lawrence as the face of the campaign, has become the subject of serious backlash — and for good reason.

Jennifer Lawrence// Dior Cruise 2019

The company has stated that the inspiration behind the collection is “the escaramuzas of Mexico.” Escaramuza is a form of rodeo performed by female riders; the sport entails performing daunting and beautiful routines on horseback while riding sidesaddle. It’s is very technical and requires great skill as it is intricately choreographed practically to the second. The riders wear traditional Mexican dresses featuring full skirts that are visually stunning — especially when placed in contrast to the high intensity sport.

The key to understanding Dior’s mistake here is understanding the roots of the escaramuza uniform. Both the sport itself and the uniforms worn by the female riders are both inspired by and a celebration of the Adelitas, the female soldiers of the Mexican revolution. Both the sport of escaramuza and the costumes worn by the athletes have deep ties in Mexican culture.

A representative of the brand said in a statement to Fox News that the backlash is “not at all justified” and that “Dior is working with Mexican photographers and commissioned 8 Mexican women photographers to shoot in Mexico in order to promote the cruise collection as you can see on our Instagram account.” This representative fails to recognize that the cause of the backlash is due to Dior’s complete lack of respect to the cultural significance of the escaramuza costumes and the white-washing and Europeanization of Mexican culture. It is not enough to hire Mexican photographers and shoot promotions in Mexico when the campaign itself was shot on a ranch in California with a white woman at its center.

Additionally, many of Lawrence's statements about the line have been, in fact, a slap in the face to Mexican culture and its importance. Lawrence stated in an advert for the campaign that it was shot on a ranch in California and added that she, “can't think of a better landscape to highlight this collection.”  Perhaps, a campaign that is reportedly inspired by Mexican athletes and their uniforms, which are inspired by Mexican military women, would find a better landscape in, say, Mexico. Lawrence also stated that she is excited that, “this collection is looking at and celebrating these women’s heritage through such a modern lens.”  This comment shows ignorance about the fact that the women who participate in escaramuza and the sport itself are already a modern celebration of the heritage of Mexican women.

Escaramuza Riders

The so called “modern lens” that the collection was created under is that of Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri, the artistic director of Dior women’s collections. The brand stated that she was inspired by the female riders, “with their strong, sculpted bodies clad in costumes that emphasize their femininity (full skirts, embroideries, bright colors, large hats and flowers).” It is clear that the escaramuza costume is the originating source of the designs featured in the collection, which showcase full skirts, saddlebags, embroidered jackets and corsets. What is missing is an acknowledgment of the cultural significance to Mexico that the clothing worn by these riders holds. These uniforms are a representation of traditional Mexican clothing, and this collection lacks any respect to this culture. As much as Dior claims to be inspired by the escaramuza for this collection, by never paying respect to the women and culture they are reportedly inspired by, they simply mimic the traditional clothing of Mexico and appropriate Mexican culture.