Let’s Talk About Sex: The Fashion of Gender and Sexuality Panel
Graphic by Natalie Vazquez
Once in a while, it’s important – and arguably necessary – to stop our busy lives, schedules and to-do lists to give space for introspection. People, businesses and even STITCH itself should always aim to take a breather to reflect on who they are, what they do and why they do it. This is one of the main reasons STITCH held the “Fashion of Gender and Sexuality” panel on February 25th. I say this because the Sex Issue’s online launch is just around the corner on Friday (YAY!), and therefore discussing topics we covered in it such as sexuality, gender, body image, identity, sex and how this all intersects with the fashion industry is more than fitting.
To lead the attendees in the talk, STITCH’s corporate team invited two special guests. The first to arrive was Ashley Kraus, a postdoctoral research fellow at Northwestern’s Institute for Sexual and Gender Minority Health, who specializes in the intersection of media, mental health, gender and sexuality. Her research includes the effects of body-positive media on discrete emotions, self-discrepancies and body image outcomes. The second guest was Raymond San Diego, a Visiting Assistant Professor at Northwestern for the Department of Asian American Studies. His research focuses on “transnational queer and feminist Asian/American performance practice, biopolitics and disability studies and the spatial politics of erotic visual cultures.”
The event included important and candid conversations about the complicated intersections between fashion, gender and sexuality, especially concerning body image and body positivity. Below are my own key takeaways from the event.
Be true to yourself.
When asked about how to go against the socialization to gender fashion, the panelists responded that the best way to tackle this is to be true to yourself and kind to your own body. Doing so means recognizing the years of socialization behind us that have taught society how to dress and act, but also feeling no pressure to adhere to it. San Diego, dressed in a black leather “half-skirt,” revealed that this was especially important when he made the move from California to the suburbs of the Midwest – a region known for being much more conservative. Although he initially sought out to “buy more slacks and button-up shirts,” he soon realized that it wasn’t his style and that he should embrace his identity rather than adhere to society’s norms.
Fashion is gendered.
Whether we like it or not, the overwhelming majority of fashion in stores is gendered. Although this can be clearly seen in the separation of stores by “Male” and “Female,” it can also be hidden – like the sides of the zipper in men’s and women’s clothes. According to San Diego, men’s jackets have zippers on the right side and women’s are on the left because historically, women needed help getting ready.
Society forms gendered performance.
Performing, like posing for a picture, tends to be a gendered act. Although many of us don’t consciously do so, it is common for women to pose for a picture with their hands on their hips to make their arms look skinnier. This is a clear example of performing gender. Another example is the “group squat” that many women do – even when there’s no one behind them. Why would you make yourself smaller for other people? Could you see a “masculine” man doing the same pose? My guess is probably not.
Reaching Body Positivity is a long and difficult process.
Body Positivity is far from being the norm in today’s society and fashion industry. Although some companies have made the leap to promote more body-diverse ads and content, we still have a long way to go. In Kraus’ research, she analyzed the effects of the Dove Campaign for Real Beauty. Among her findings were the fact that campaigns like these “don’t really help or hurt” body positivity because it’s still based on being against a very normative ideal. Additionally, they are very narrow in terms of race, body hair and disability. So, can any ad in the industry accurately portray body diversity and positivity? Kraus strongly believes so, discussing Rihanna’s SavageXFenty runway and Fenty Beauty campaign. Not only did this campaign promote body diversity, it also created ripple effects throughout the entire fashion industry, such as changing the number of baseline foundation shades that a line should release. “Rihanna’s a game-changer,” Kraus said. “It goes to show that people can disrupt the consumer market.”
Image via Elle
Social media is a powerful platform.
“Social media has given people a voice to speak to brands that don’t suit them,” Kraus said, while referencing the teenage girl who fought for the “Body Peace Treaty” with Seventeen Magazine. In 2012, the magazine signed a contract that promised to no longer photoshop their models. Examples like these show that social media is indeed a platform to make changes. But, social media also propagates societal norms, as seen in The New Yorker’s piece on how everyone on Instagram looks the same. Whether it’s through the Facetune app or actual surgery, the “Instagram face” is far from naturally attainable. For San Diego, these Barbie doll-esque Instagram influencers only remind him of how hard it is to make a cake look good on camera when he bakes. Lighting, filters and even a whiteboard are used to create that perfect shot. He urged the audience to remember the prep that comes with influencers’ “perfect” photos. “A man with a 20-pack probably hasn’t eaten in days, has a bad mood and terrible breath,” he said. For San Diego, he hopes that once people remember that, they’ll hopefully be less inclined to compare yourself to them.
Overall, The Fashion of Gender and Sexuality Panel led to amazing reflections and candid stories from both attendees and panelists on their experiences with sexuality, gender, body image, identity, sex and the fashion industry.
Image via Olivia Corderi