Luxury Designers Joining the Streetwear Circuit: How Multi-Billion Dollar Companies Co-Opt Designs From American Subculture

The rise in popularity of streetwear and other similarly inspired styles in recent years is undeniable. The look comes out of the late 70s and 80s, seen largely in skate and surf culture, which often drew from punk, grunge and and hip-hop culture. Marked by t-shirts, sweatshirts, jeans, sweatpants, sneakers and other such pieces, the look, at least at one time, was attainable to the various different demographics that participated in these subcultures. The look was comfortable and practical for the wearer and showcased an edge from its counterculture roots.

Today, with countless celebrities such as Rihanna, the Kardashians, and Ariana Grande embracing a take on this look and sporting hoodies and sneakers on a regular basis, the conversation becomes more complicated. For instance, the hoodie Ariana Grande can be seen wearing in the now iconic picture of her with a lollipop and Pete Davidson happens to be a $225 Cloney and Benji hoodie. The price point  of the hoodie puts it out of reach for the consumer looking for a hoodie to throw on to skate, but places it on the lower end of the price spectrum of many of the street wear pieces being worn by celebrities and others. One of those Gucci T-shirt that seem to be everywhere will cost you almost $600. A pair of Balenciaga dad sneakers costs $895. If you want a Vetements hoodie that Rihanna and Kanye West have been seen wearing, be prepared to spend $800. Still, with the street style look becoming mainstream among counterculture participants and millionaire heiresses alike, more of these high-end designers are turning out products to accommodate the growing demand.

The “Balenciaga Aesthetic” under the direction of Demna Gvasalia, Kanye West’s Yeezy and even the newly announced collaboration between Pharrell Williams and Channel are both examples of highly lucrative brands in the fashion industry now joining the street wear bandwagon. Homogenization in fashion in which all different demographics can find commonality in the clothes we wear is far from a cause for outrage. What is concerning is how these brands, by producing these once attainable clothes in an unattainable market, create further divisions and not only take influence from counterculture and their poor participants, but simply take from them.This is precisely where the ethicacy issue lies. Historically, people who embraced this fashion and cultures like skate and hip-hop, were considered gritty, underground; and the opposite of the luxury and elite these high-end brand represent. Not only is there a historic disrespect of this fashion and culture, but there is also the fact that these cultures have long been a home for low-income individuals. Your hoodie didn’t have to cost a thousand dollars. Jeans, a t-shirt and sneakers are all accessible clothing for poor individuals. Thus, there is an innate issue in multi billion dollar grossing brands taking influence from the fashion choices of poor individuals. This comes in the form of specifically designing clothing worn by the less wealthy and selling it at a completely unattainable price point. With the popularity of street wear actively growing, a discourse must be had on respect for the origins of the fashion, and designers must be held accountable for how they navigate the complex world of socioeconomic class and subculture.