Punk and Politics: The Evolution of Battle Jackets

Designed by Wendy Zhu

We have seen battle jackets even if we never learned those words. Covered in patches, pins, studs and paint, these jackets and vests are one of those endlessly cool and deeply personal types of clothing. Whether themed around a band, a genre or your own beliefs, battle jackets are the purest form of wearing your heart on your sleeve. 

They first emerged during World War II when airmen added patches and paintings to their flight jackets to carry a piece of home with them. When those same pilots returned from war, they still sought the thrill of flight. So, many formed and joined motorcycle clubs, bringing the tradition of customizing a jacket with them. A clear subculture and community soon developed around these personally decorated pieces. 

The do-it-yourself jacket or vest style was adopted in the 1970s by the punk music scene as a way to broadcast their anti-establishment sensibilities and political rebellion. Punks covered leather jackets in studs, safety pins, rivets and chains. The look was solidified as rebellious, expressive and cool.

In the 80s, the heavy metal scene made these battle jackets music-focused. With that shift a myriad of rules developed for how to rock the look: only bands you’ve seen live get a patch, only one genre per jacket, only one patch per band and so on. These only strengthened the battle jackets’ ties to their specific music subcultures and communities they represented.

Rules or not, battle jackets are a labor of love. You have to apply each stud by hand, hunt down or create your own patches just to hand sew them on, perhaps with dental floss if you don’t have thread. You have to find the perfect jacket, vest, or even a hoodie or pair of pants. We have embraced the pieces that are forever works in progress, with continuously added and replaced patches. Battle jackets have always been a way to express yourself and show your loyalty to a community. 

Once punk and alternative fashion entered the mainstream, it became possible to buy your own pre-made battle jacket. The subculture and community of punk and metal music became commodified and commercialized. People can buy a denim jacket with patches right off a rack. Yet, buying a fully-designed jacket leaves out the crucial process of pouring your heart and soul into the jacket by picking every embellishment yourself. 

The commodification of the battle jacket spawned a protective attitude among punks and metalheads, with many looking down on new takes and those not doing it “right.” People now make jackets themed around anything they love, like books and other genres of music. The rise of identity politics and polarizing beliefs also means we see more patches against fascism or showcasing all forms of pride. Punk and its fashion have always been inherently political. 

We can even see this struggle on two battle jacket dedicated Reddit communities. The page “r/BattleJacket” prominently proclaims that they are “about music, not ideology” while and “r/JacketsforBattle” celebrates kawaii, occult and movie-themed jackets. In the traditionalist mind, anything other than a completely or nearly completely band-themed jacket is still just for posers. 

While battle jackets are rooted in music and live shows, fashion always evolves. Preferring the look of a cohesive music-centered jacket doesn’t make any other themed jacket worse or fake. It is the self-expression and DIY element that make each piece cool and personal. 

Battle jackets give us all a way to create our own armor for our personal battles. These battles don’t have to just be a mosh pit or a wall of death anymore. There is more space and patches for those who want to showcase their pride and politics. These pieces have always inherently been about rebellion and community, showing support for bands, artists or yourself amidst your own struggles. The battle jacket is a piece you wear to pits and protests in the battle for your own life.