A STITCH in Time: The History of Turtlenecks
Graphic via Grace Lougheed. Images via Adobe Stock
Now a staple of most wardrobes, the versatile turtleneck can serve as a basic or a standout, as sexy or modest, as winter wear or everyday wear. I personally own seven, and I’m always open to more. But what path did the garment take to wind up in each of our closets? From fishermen to feminists, let’s take a look at the origins of the turtleneck.
Going way way back, the turtleneck is said to have originated in medieval times, when knights would often experience severe chafing on their necks from chainmail, making it difficult to move quickly during battle. Thus, the turtleneck was created to be worn under the armor, protecting the neck from rough metal. Speaking from experience, it does the same for a scratchy wool coat.
Images via the Reading Museum and the Royal Shakespeare Company
Later, in Elizabethan times, the turtleneck took on a new, more stylish form: the ruff. Unlike the previous iteration, this turtleneck was all style and no substance. You might recognize it on the likes of William Shakespeare and Queen Elizabeth I.
Image via Norfolk
The turtleneck’s next cultural moment was in the 19th century, when fishermen from the Aran Islands near Ireland donned the sweaters to protect themselves from the dangerously cold wind at sea (and looked fabulous while doing so). The trend was also adopted for polo players and militaries around this time, leading the turtleneck to be associated with utility more than fashion.
Image via the Library of Congress
The pendulum swung back again toward fashion in the 20th century, as the image of the ideal woman became the “Gibson girl,” referring to popular illustrations by the artist Charles Dana Gibson. The drawings’ impeccable styles featured high collars akin to the turtleneck.
Image via Tumblr
The turtleneck as we know it today was truly popularized in the 1950s, when the sweater was both made sexy, worn by the likes of Jayne Mansfield and Marilyn Monroe, and associated with the beat movement, especially by Audrey Hepburn in the movie Funny Face.
Image via the National Portrait Gallery
The garment was also picked up by progressive figures of the ‘70s, including members of the Black Panther movement and feminist leaders like Gloria Steinem and Dorothy Pitman-Hughes. Thus, the turtleneck took on a chic, countercultural association.
Images via Getty
Although it faded to the background from the 1980s through the 2000s (despite a valiant effort on the part of Steve Jobs), the turtleneck has recently seen a resurgence as ‘70s-inspired fashion has grown in popularity. The style has featured in modern collections from the likes of Gucci, Balmain and Fendi.
Now, armed with the history behind it, go forth and wear your turtleneck with pride, channeling Elizabethan royalty, iconic actresses and trailblazing revolutionaries – all while keeping your neck cozy.