The Fashion Institute of Technology Faces Backlash After Runway Show is Accused of Racism
Graphic by Grace Lougheed. Image via Bennett Raglin/Getty Images For Fashion Institute of Technology.
The Fashion Institute of Technology put two school officials on administrative leave after a fashion show during New York Fashion Week was accused of racism. The show, which showcased the work of a graduating student from FIT’s Masters program in fashion design, featured "large prosthetic ears and lips and bushy eyebrows,” according to a statement released by Dr. Joyce Brown, the President of FIT.
Both students and models protested the use of the prosthetic accessories, which share a shocking resemblance to racist caricatures. Model Amy LeFevre brought this to the attention of show organizers before the pieces were sent down the runway, but unfortunately her comments were ignored.In an interview with the New York Post, LeFevre said “I stood there almost ready to break down, telling the staff that I felt incredibly uncomfortable with having to wear these pieces and that they were clearly racist.” According to LeFevre, her concerns were ignored by those in charge of the show. LeFevre ultimately walked in the show, but refused to wear the accessories. Other models, who are not black, walked wearing the accessories.
Image via Teen Vogue
The show was directed by Jonathan Farmer, chair of the MFA Fashion Design Department, and produced by Richard Thornn, creative director of British fashion production company NAMES LDN. In the same interview with The Post, a student who wished to remain anonymous said that multiple students and LeFevre brought concerns to Farmer and Thorne: “We said, ‘She cannot wear this. This is wrong.’ He [Thorne] screamed in my face, ‘You need to back down and get away.’ It was such a grave lack of judgment.”
NBC News reported that Farmer has since apologized to LeFevre and others affected by the racist imagery featured in the show. He wrote in a now-privated instagram post: "It was never our intent for the show's styling to be interpreted as racist or to make people feel uncomfortable, but I now fully understand why this happened. I take full responsibility and am committed to learning from this situation and taking steps to do better.” Farmer, as well as dean of the School of Graduate Studies Mary Davis, were placed on leave following the show.
The designs were created by recent FIT grad Junkai Huang. According to Brown's statement, “Junkai has said, and his thesis notes and sketches support, that the collection he designed and produced was not aimed at invoking or provoking racial implications.” Brown also stated that the accessories were provided to Huang and not chosen by him. “To us, this indicates that those in charge of and responsible for overseeing the show failed to recognize or anticipate the racist references and cultural insensitivities that were obvious to almost everybody else.”
The fashion industry has continually found itself in hot water after designs have been accused of invoking racist imagery, stereotypes and tropes. Last February, Gucci came under fire over a sweater many argued depicted black face. Prada faced similar backlash over figurines. Fashion has always tried to be cutting-edge – and often pushes the envelope – but baiting with race issues and imagery charged with extreme prejudice is not the means for a new edgy design, but instead a racist one.