Alexander McQueen's S/S 2025 Collection Is 'Grand'
Graphic by Alexander Hernandez Gonzalez
Sinister, perplexing and well-versed is what represents Alexander McQueen’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, which closed out the sixth day of Paris Fashion Week.
Held at the École des Beaux-Arts on Saturday evening, the place was adorned with statues, detailed tile flooring and an agitated installation that had a truthful meaning.
Irish Fashion designer Seán McGirr, creative director of the British luxury fashion house, wanted the sharpness to be covered by the light, which in turn, resulted in a caged rooftop, bright lights and smoke that allowed the clothing to be the mainstage attraction.
Before the show started, the room was dark, the music began to glitch out and the runway started to light up. All of a sudden, smoke starts to appear across the catwalk and the show commences.
American model Betsy Gaghan, the opener, is seen wearing silver earrings, a white turtleneck with feathers bursting out and a well-fitted long black trench coat dress that is bunched together along with tall black pumps.
Fabric that meets at the middle of the body, ruffled fringe appears seamlessly in clothing along with amazing tailoring is a major improvement and is starting to be quintessentially McQueen.
One model wears mismatched silver earrings, a black suit vest with white ruffles and a red back with red ribbon hanging from the back, a matching pair of cut-out trousers with enormous black boots, a McQueen classic.
Cobweb lace, draped white dresses, exaggerated dress shirt collars along with the decade-spanning range of British music provide excitement to the brand.
After Lee Alexander McQueen passed away in 2010, his processor was English fashion designer Sarah Burton, who designed for the house until October 2023. Now, McGirr has control of this iconic house and so far, he is doing a splendid job at representing the house authentically.
Excellent tailoring is seen within suits, two-piece dresses and pops of colors throughout the collection. Accessories are sleek and gleaming, they add another layer to not just the clothes, but the aesthetic that is presented by the brand.
A model wears mismatched black and silver earrings, an army green jacket with black buttons and a green suede oversized collar, a matching skirt with belt and ruffles on the back with a pair of platform brown, white and wood shoes.
Oranges, silver cuffs and moto-jacket-style pieces are taking their turn on the stage.
American model and influencer Alex Consani is seen with a sharp winged liner, mismatched earrings, a long dreamy sheer yellow dress and strappy white platform pumps. This look, along with the stage setting, reminds me of a beautiful banshee who wants you to join her in the afterlife for eternity.
Leather in a variety of forms, bustling hips on blazers and chains draping off of models are exciting and reminiscent of what Lee McQueen would have played with in his collections.
A model walks out in a sheer black dress with vine detailing, ruffles and feathers on the hands and bottom of the dress along with feathered pumps and of course, mismatched earrings. This look references an archival show that many love; Fall/Winter 2006.
Most recently, Lana Del Rey was seen in a custom nude sheer McQueen gown with hawthorn branches at the 2024 Met Gala. Everyone loves a callback to simpler times and McGirr kept that in mind.
The final look turned heads at first sight. Argentinian model Belu Porto is seen wearing a full outfit made up of crystals while walking barefoot on the runway. From the headpiece down to the bottom of the dress, this look is easily the McQueen banshee notifying the public of what McGirr’s McQueen will be; grand.
As models walk for the finale, house staples are reinvented and a sense of familiarity is felt among the crowd including American rapper Cardi B, English singer-songwriter FKA Twigs and editor-in-chief of Vogue Magazine, Anna Wintour.
McGirr walks out in an army green top, green blazer, ripped blue jeans and black loafers meanwhile the crowd gives the designer his flowers.
For his sophomore collection, McGirr has now got a taste and idea of what McQueen and Burton brought to the brand and now seems more confident in designing for the brand. I hope the crystal banshee is right, but time will only tell.