From Cher to Zendaya: The Designer Dressing Your Favorite Divas

Graphic by guest designer Tori Wilkins (http://toriwilkins.com).

For my 18th birthday, I needed a disco-themed party. Why? I wanted nothing more than to recreate one of the show-stopping looks sported by Cher in the ‘70s. She was constantly seen in daring designs that demanded attention. Her outfits consisted of sequins, sparkles, feathers, fur – you name it. The majority of her iconic looks had one thing in common: they were created by Bob Mackie.

Mackie’s glamorous and intricate designs have dazzled celebrities and audiences alike for six decades. Since his debut in 1961, he has dedicated his life to dressing some of the most famous stars in Hollywood. His early design sketches were of expressive ensembles, garnished with beads, glistening sequins, and extravagant accessories, such as Cher’s headdresses and Tina Turner and Elton John’s fiery feathered wings. His goal was to capture a character with his designs. He quickly gained recognition from various costume designers, such as Edith Head and Jean Louis, and from there his career flew. He is best known for his costume work on the Carol Burnett Show, his breakout project for Paramount in which he designed over 200 costumes, and his partnership with Cher, which earned him two Emmys: one in 1999 and another in 2003. His style has asserted itself since the earliest days of his career with flamboyant designs and detailed sketches in which he imagines a new persona for each star with every look.

Cher and Bob Mackie at the MET Gala in 1974.

Mackie and Cher at the MET in 1985.

One of his first well-known designs was Marilyn Monroe’s 1962 sheer JFK dress that helped spark the resurgence of the naked dress. The garment was a gleaming spectacle, overlaid with 2500 rhinestones. The dress was perfectly fitted for Monroe and was so slim, she had to be sewn into it. The dress was Mackie’s first official post-grad project, completed with the help of Jean Louis. He then did mostly costume work, winning an Emmy in 1966 for his whimsical designs in “Alice Through the Looking Glass,” before returning to fashion design. He stunned crowds in 1974 and 1985 by creating an amalgamation of camp, yet classic style with Cher’s MET Gala designs. The designs mixed sheer with sleek and made Cher the center of attention both nights. His archival works were recently worn by stars such as Kim Petras at the 2023 Grammy Awards and Zendaya for the TIME 100 Gala. His bold patterns and luxurious draperies leave stars pressing to be dressed by him.

Kim Petras after the 65th Annual Grammy Awards.

Zendaya at the 2022 Time 100 Annual Gala. Image courtesy of Getty Images.

Mackie helped stars redefine the role of a diva, assuring his designs were always larger-than-life like his stars. Mackie brought drama to each look with diverse silhouettes created with fur trims and feather shoulder pads. His designs encouraged stars to embrace their roles with confidence. A new exhibit at the V&A South Kensington Museum in London, opening June 24th, celebrates the creativity and power of divas and the fashion that championed them. The exhibit will showcase Mackie’s works, such as his ensembles for Cher, Elton John and Diana Ross at the 1975 Rock Music Awards and Tina Turner’s 1977 flame dress. 

Throughout his career, he continuously captured timeless glamor with every eye-catching look, and defined a new generation of extraordinary figures.

Tina Turner on tour, circa 1978.