Phoebe Philo’s White Sneaker: A Closet Staple
Graphic by Austin Kim
One trend that has endured the test of time is the famous white sneaker. This shoe sits in almost everyone’s closet and is considered to be a fashion staple. I was curious how this shoe style came to be so popular, so I decided to do my own research. That is when I came upon the name Phoebe Philo: a British fashion designer who brought the white sneaker to its fame
Phoebe Philo grew up in London and began to experiment with sewing when she received a sewing machine from her parents at the age of 14. Philo attended Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London, majoring in fashion design, and then she quickly joined the team at Chloé—a French luxury fashion house. Afterward, she landed the role of creative director for Céline from 2008 until 2018. Philo took a break from designing for a couple of years and she is currently launching her namesake brand under French luxury group LVMH. PHOEBE PHILO is set to be released in September 2023.
Philo’s philosophy in fashion is to create garments that look chic but also maintain their practicality. When I look at her designs on the Céline runway, I notice how most of the clothing appears to be comfortable, elegant and sensible. Her designs feature clean lines, luxurious fabrics, and are quite versatile. It is not outlandish to imagine the everyday woman walking down the street wearing one of her beautiful coats perfectly tailored to the female body. Philo had a clear understanding of what the everyday woman would want and need in her closet to feel confident.
While the clothing appears to be quite minimalistic, unique touches bring the garments to life. A beautifully tailored blazer with an asymmetric touch on one side or a simple dress with a half white half black vertical design, Philo’s designs exude a quiet elegance that many women appreciated and created a cult fanbase. Philo boosted Celine’s sales and her impact can still be seen through resale websites. After Heidi Slimane became the creative director of Celine, fans of Philo begged for the return of the “Old Céline.” Second hand sales of Philo’s designs at Celine are wildly popular, especially for working women within the 30 to 60 age range. Items within her Celine collections generally sell for their former recommended retail price. Collectors of “Old Céline” do not collect these items to simply own them, but rather they are everyday pieces in their closets due to their wearability.
The white sneaker on its own is quite reflective of Philo’s personal style – both comfortable and stylish. Rather than wearing high heels, white sneakers allow women to feel comfortable even after wearing them for hours. Additionally, the shoe is quite versatile and gives an effortless look while still appearing stylish.
The shoe is also a staple in Philo’s closet. Following her fashion shows, she often stepped out in white sneakers paired with a classy outfit. This sense of effortlessness in Philo’s style allowed the shoe to become synonymous with subdued classiness. Thus, the addition of the white sneaker to her wardrobe made them a staple in contemporary fashion.
Furthermore, the current athleisure trend in fashion allows for a growth in the white sneaker’s popularity. Wearing athletic clothing and shoes outside of the gym has become a normalized part of everyday wear. The white sneaker did not stand out amongst a sea of leggings, joggers, and sporty tops.
Today, the white sneaker’s popularity has not dwindled. There is a constant battle between sneakers companies as to what shoe will be the next big hit. Currently, the most popular white sneaker on the market amongst teens are Sambas, but through the past couple of years, I have seen Stan Smiths, Superstars and Reeboks rise and fall. The trend continues to grow as designers put more emphasis on creating new innovative designs for the white sneaker.
To examine the white shoe’s trendiness means to recognize Philo’s influence on the fashion industry. Her minimalist and chic aesthetic aligned with the growth of the white sneaker. By incorporating the shoe into her wardrobe, she asserted that it could be a versatile and stylish staple. The white sneaker trend goes beyond age and gender, and it can be incorporated by all members of society. The shoe is truly a blend of comfort and style, making it an easy addition to anyone’s closet.