The Necessities: Breaking Down The Modern-Day Skincare Routine
Ten years ago, shopping online at Sephora was almost unheard of. Back then, the brand operated like most beauty stores, selling expensive perfumes and color-discriminatory products like foundations and blushes. It’s never been easy to purchase these products online, as anyone would agree that Chanel No. 5 smells ten different ways to nine different noses, and NARS’ timeless Orgasm blush swipes a fine line between clown-like and flushed. Today, you could probably spend hours perusing the plethora of products available on Sephora’s website. Sure, you may need to sacrifice some beauty sleep to read through reviews and answer all the questions on Sephora’s “Skin IQ Test,” but at least you can do so from the comfort of your own bed (beauty rest encouraged when the scrolling gets tough).
In theory, you could never visit a physical Sephora store and still end up with makeup (foundation, blush, mascara, and maybe even an eyeshadow palette) that works for you. But when it comes to the world of modern-day skincare products, things get a bit more complicated. More than once I have found myself stumbling across a product, or an entire category of products, that reviewers and beauty experts swear I can’t live without, but the last time I checked, my heart is still beating and I think I still look presentable. In these moments, I tell myself not to panic. I probably look fine (someone would have told me otherwise, right?), but after feeling confused by terms like essence and toner, I thought it might be time to learn a bit more about these “necessary” components praised by modern-day beauty gurus, so I took a real-life trip to Sephora (gasp!) to try them on for myself. As it turns out, I actually benefited from my lost beauty sleep because I learned a ton from the on-site skincare expert at Sephora (Lesson 1: you can make a FREE skincare tutorial appointment at Sephora, and I highly recommend that you take advantage).
Even the most novice makeup users knows the basics of skincare: moisturize your face, don’t forget your SPF, and maybe throw in some eye cream if you’re feeling extra fancy. For some people, these steps alone are sufficient in producing healthy, radiant skin. But for others, that suffer from dryness, dullness, or anything in between, there are amazing products available to address such concerns. There will definitely be some trial-and-error involved in crafting your own unique skin care routine, but bear with the “intense moisture” and the promises to “brighten your complexion,” because some of these products can actually transform your skin in a way you never thought possible.
Step 1: Toner
Regardless of your skin type, experts recommend that a crucial first step after washing your face in the morning is to apply toner. These lightweight, watery formulas once strictly marketed as oil and acne reducing, are now compatible with all skin types, crafted to penetrate deeply into the skin to hydrate and restore. Think of toner as the “primer” for your skincare routine, and don’t be fooled by its watery consistency— toners are packed with ultra-hydrating ingredients like glycerin that retain moisture and protect against natural skin-stripping elements like wind and sun. Just remember to apply your toner ASAP after washing your face to make sure it really soaks in.
Like many NU students, my main concern this past winter (and chilly spring) has been dryness. The Sephora skincare expert recommended Belif’s Witch Hazel Herbal Extract Toner, which I have been using for about two weeks now, and I already see a noticeable difference in my skin post-cleansing. Instead of looking red and irritated, my skin both looks and feels supple and balanced.
Step 2: Essence/Serum
Though there has been some debate surrounding the difference between a serum and an essence, for the purposes of sticking to a basic skincare routine, these added forms of hydration are really the same thing. Intended to introduce yet another layer of hydration to the skin post-cleansing and toning, serums and essences range from more lightweight and watery to thicker and oily depending on the concern being addressed. The active ingredients in serums and essences are typically more concentrated than those in a face moisturizer, which is why many are contained in smaller bottles with syringe-like droppers to dispense just the right amount for a single application.
Serums and essences tend to be pricier than toners and facial moisturizers, and many people avoid them because it’s hard to justify paying more than $50 for a 1oz formula of “added hydration.” My suggestion would be to work with your Sephora skin expert to round up a group of samples, and only purchase one of these luxe products once you’ve both felt and seen their results. When I first began my journey to finding a skincare routine, I nixed this step in favor of pricier moisturizers and a Clarisonic. However, after finding that my excessively dry skin still wasn’t completely healed after using toner and moisturizer, I deemed it necessary to add in this voluntary step. Always feel free to play around with your skincare routine as the seasons change— I may not need this extra layer of hydration when Evanston finally warms up. For now, though, my suggestion is Peter Thomas Roth’s Water Drench Hyaluronic Cloud Serum, which feels a bit thicker than water when applied to the skin, but instantly absorbs to create a radiant, hydrated surface for moisturizer.
Step 3: Eye Cream
Next comes another pricey, but vital step in a healthy skincare routine. Eye cream works to prevent and protect against things like under-eye circles, crow’s feet, and redness that many college students suffer from, but rarely seek to remedy. It’s crucial to include this step in your skincare routine because the eyes are where we first begin to see signs of aging in the face. This is because the skin around the eyes is extremely delicate, and it begins to exhibit wrinkles over time that are difficult and expensive to hide or reverse. Eye creams are the most concentrated of the formulas on this list, containing a variety of extracts (like algae and avocado) that specifically target smoothing fine lines and boosting firmness. As college students, it can be difficult to think about planning for a future of healthy skin with so many other things to worry about. However, dermatologists and skin care experts alike constantly stress the importance of starting skincare early when the skin is still rich in natural radiance and hydration-boosting properties.
Right now, I’m loving Kiehl’s’ Creamy Eye Treatment with Avocado, an avocado-green formula that feels thicker like a mask and gently glides over skin without feeling oily or heavy. The best part? I purchased the smaller of the two sizes available about three months ago, and I’m not even halfway through the jar, which really makes this product a bargain.
Step 4: Face Moisturizer
Ah, yes. The king of the skincare routine: moisturizer. If you’ve skipped steps 1-3 to get to this one, I don’t blame you. But after my trip to Sephora, I learned that moisturizer, though widely believed to be an integral component of skincare, is actually not nearly as important as the previous products listed here. Moisturizer is the last step in hydrating and protecting the skin, but it doesn’t penetrate nearly as deeply as a serum or toner. For this reason, moisturizers are most important for how they make your skin look, rather than how they make it feel. When choosing a suitable moisturizer for your skin type, the seemingly endless number of options can feel overwhelming. That’s why I highly recommend meeting with a Sephora skincare expert before purchasing, but don’t hesitate to prepare for your appointment by reading reviews and stalking celebrity instagram accounts.
Since moving from Dallas to Evanston, I have tried countless moisturizers in an attempt to combat my dry and flakey skin, not used to the wind and cold. I recently started using Belif’s, The True Cream Aqua Bomb which is a whipped gel formula that feels like what I would imagine walking through a cloud might feel like on my skin. While I haven’t really had the chance to experience the long-term effects of this moisturizer, I love the way that it makes my skin look dewy and bright after applying. I’ve already received compliments from friends about my radiant, fresh-looking skin.
Step 5: Sunscreen
The final step might be the last, but it absolutely isn’t the least, as most dermatologists would argue that this is the most important step in any skincare routine. Sunscreen, in any of its various forms (gel, spray, lotion, you name it), protects your skin from harmful UV rays that reach your skin on even the cloudiest days. SPF works to prevent skin cancer and early signs of sun-damage such as sun spots, redness, and wrinkles. My go-to brand for sun protection right now is SUPERGOOP!, a company that specializes in creating products with the necessary amount of SPF, but that don’t feel like you’re wearing anything at all. I use the Unseen Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 40, which has been hailed for appearing invisible on the skin and feeling completely weightless. On sunny days when I want to double up on SPF, I use the Defense Refresh Setting Mist SPF 50, which doesn’t have that trademark sunscreen smell and feels refreshing while setting my makeup.
Skincare routines are undoubtedly tricky, and it will take some effort to find your go-to products. Bloggers and beauty experts are constantly changing their tune about what’s in, what’s healthy, and what will make your skin have that coveted Kim K ~glow~. It’s okay to disagree, and its even better sometimes when you do, because it means you’ve done your research and you know what works for you. Just remember that there’s no prescription when it comes to skincare, so don’t get down on yourself if a product doesn’t do for you what it does for someone else.