A Deep Dive: Jacqueline Durran’s Best Costume Designs Before Little Women
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Earlier this month, Greta Gerwig’s Little Women (2019) won the Academy Award for Best Costume Design. After reviewing this highlight, it comes as no surprise. The costumes in this film were so intricately designed and played a very important role in the development of the plot and the personality of the characters.
British costume designer Jacqueline Durran is the genius behind the costumes of Little Women, and while her work on this film was incredible, it is far from her biggest accomplishment. Durran has been designing costumes for the screen since the late ‘90s, and throughout her career, she has produced some truly breathtaking pieces of art. Her designs are thoughtful and unprecedented. Known for her work on period pieces, she claims her main goal is for the characters’ clothing is to actually look “lived in.” Despite this only being her second Academy Award win, her designs are coveted by directors and highly-praised by critics. Her work is even featured in another 2020 Best Picture nominee: 1917 (2019). There is no doubt Durran has talent, but what else has she done?
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Her claim to fame began with Pride and Prejudice (2005).
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Before she clothed the March sisters, Durran established herself as an esteemed costume designer with a keen eye for vintage pieces in her work on this film. Because the Bennett family was of lower socioeconomic status, her main purpose was for the clothing to look handmade and relatively cheap. However, Durran’s distinct style shines through in this film, with careful attention to detail particularly present with the character of Elizabeth (Keira Knightley).
Atonement (2007)
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Durran sent audiences raving for this spectacular kelly green dress in Atonement. The design alone is beautiful, but what set it aside from Durran’s other work is the way it moved on camera. This dress is still talked about today, and at the time of its release, replicas of the dress sold for $30,000.
Anna Karenina (2012)
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It comes as no surprise that this film is what finally won Durran her first Academy Award. Each costume is spectacularly done. This film is also when Durran first used her idea of “mixing references,” or simply put, not focusing on historical accuracy (she also used this tool in Little Women).
Black Mirror Season 3 Ep. 1 “Nosedive” (2016)
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In a particularly memorable episode of Black Mirror, centered on social media and dominated by aesthetics, Durran’s artistic eye contributed to the overall theme of pastel and uniformity. Her designs added to the desperate search for perfection by the protagonist in this episode. Most importantly, however, is how well her designs made the viewer uncomfortable with their lack of uniformity.
Beauty and the Beast (2017)
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With massive expectations to live up to, Durran added a modern spin to the Disney classic. Her main goal for the costume designs in this film was to represent Belle (Emma Watson) as an independent woman with her own convictions, while also remaining true to what Disney fans wanted to see on the live-action Belle.
Jacqueline Durran is a brilliant designer with an exceptional talent for bringing the characters she costumes to life. While she is known for her work on period pieces, Durran insists she is not partial to them. Her next project is Batman (2021) starring Robert Pattinson – perhaps the only male actor who can give Timothee Chalamet’s Laurie a run for his money. With a packed resume of exceptional designs, Durran will ensure that Pattinson’s Batman will have no trouble looking good while fighting crime.